Phuntsholing

If you are coming into the mountain kingdom of Bhutan by the land route of West Bengal, it's likely that Phuntsholing will be your first port of call. The bustling town is found huddled between flanks of stone-ribbed and jungle-dressed mountains, tucked right up to the border with Jaigaon in India. The crossing is marked by an elaborate Bhutanese gateway and a simple stone wall.

As you enter Phuntsholing, prepare yourself for a town with a distinct air of importance. Some of the country's main banks and businesses have opted to make this their home, no doubt drawn by the convenient trade links with the superpower that's to the south. That said, between the urbane office buildings and homes, you can spy out the occasional flurry of Asian charm. Just check the kaleidoscope of colour that is Zangto Pelri Lhakhang – the hallowed abode of celestial Guru Rinpoche.

Phuntsholing tour guides can also help plan your adventures deeper into the country. Gedu is the next obvious steppingstone in the mountains. And beyond that is the legendary Paro district, a land of carved mountain summits and mysterious dzong monasteries forgotten by time.