Edfu

To stroll beneath the formidable rises of the Temple of Horus, just a short jaunt north of Aswan along the Nile, is to delve to the very heart of Ptolemaic Egypt; and find oneself in arguably the best-preserved ancient religious complex in the entire country. Looming on the dusty ridges of the Nile River’s western banks, the colossal decorated pylon of this grand building is unquestionably Edfu’s greatest attraction. It keeps watch over the clusters of souvenir vendors and tour operators that preside over the centre of the modern town, casting the shadow of its humble pyramid and massive, mural-covered facades over the pottery workshops and sugar-cane fields that keep this otherwise agricultural town ticking over. While making the trek to the complex on the hill, be sure to ask your Edfu tourist guide for the low down on the major sights contained within; the endless montages of carved wall reliefs; the falcon-headed statuettes that guard the doors; the mysterious interior sanctuary rooms, all offering rich insights into the Egyptian past and its curious religious nuances.